January, 1, 2006 - Shanghai

New Year's Day in Shanghai was an incredible experience; I quickly became the student of the master Professor of Shopping: Amelia. She's rather awesome to watch in action. She confirmed my list of items I wanted to obtain and we went from place to place—she had a definite methodology. We would go to one store where items were too expensive, but she knew there were many of the items I wanted. She would note what I wanted and then we would leave and she would find the same or better items elsewhere and then would go into negotiation mode. After a few transactions I told Helen to tell her I wished I knew Chinese to truly learn from a master negotiator! She is amazing and tenacious!

Half way through we took a break to enjoy a wonderful New Year's lunch at a very popular and famous place in Shanghai: Nanxiang Steamed Bun Restaurant. It's in the heart of the old town shopping area and on three levels in a traditionally designed Chinese building. She had called ahead for reservations and the three of us struggled to keep pace with her as she wove in and out of the crowds, passing literally hundreds of people waiting for a table at the restaurant and appeared before the woman in charge of seating. Clearly, they knew each other. And, as they cleared a table for us, Amelia began her review of the menu and began ordering even before we were seated at the table. I told Helen, "She is a master in multi-tasking as well!"

The steamed buns we had are a mixture of pork and crab (I saw them clean the crabs, very small so it's quite a detailed process) in a white dough that is sealed on the top and then steamed in round bamboo containers. Two stacks of four containers arrived at our table with about 5 buns in each. The secret, Helen told me, was to dip the bun in the little dish with thinly sliced ginger and vinegar. Just bite a small end of the bun and then suck the juice out...all done with chopsticks, of course. I can't say that I'm expert with chopsticks, but with practice of using no other utensil since my arrival in China, I am managing to not embarrass myself. Our driver joined us and between the stack of buns, a side of impossibly thinly sliced and marinated beef, two vegetables and two desserts we nearly exploded with all food.

Fueled up for another round of shopping, Amelia took off like a shot and wound us through the dense crowds to find some of the items that remained. I'm so glad I asked, at the last minute, to buy some tea. That was a heart-warming experience.

Amelia's eyes lit up when I said tea and she told Helen to tell me she knew of the right place. Winding our way through another section of old town we arrived at a woman tea merchant's shop. When Amelia and the proprietress saw each other, I quickly learned they were friends. Motioning for us to sit down at the tea table—a huge trunk of a very old tree served nicely for the five of us to sit around—and she began serving us tea.

I motioned at the tall, flute-like glass on the table which held what appeared to be a flower that took up the length of the glass. Impressive, I questioned further and learned it was flower tea. The owner took a large, thumb-size brown object and put it into another glass. She poured teaming hot water into the glass and we watched the flower "bloom." Amazed, I and took photos of its transformation. We sipped this tea and then she offered a ginseng oolong tea that after you drink it, it tastes sweet. Another wonderful tea! I told Amelia that our 'tea party' made our New Year's together—the four of us shoppers—a wonderful, wonderful memory.

After we acquired everything on my list—and many items that weren't!—Amelia quickly found our car and driver and we took off to the river so I could see both sides of the city. Like Portland, a river runs through Shanghai...but from an architectural perspective one side—the financial district—has hundred year old buildings that speak of Western influence and some Russian. On the other side it's a sea of growing skyscrapers less than 10 years old that all carry unique marks and designs.

Helen and Rebecca helped get me through the sea of people out for a stroll on the promenade as we walked arm in arm to keep from being parted and potentially lost from each other. We strolled the waterfront and I took pictures and then returned to the van. Amelia announced it was Sunday and she was going to church, disembarked from the van and disappeared into the crowd. I thought she had meant we were to see a church and I told Helen on my next trip to Shanghai I would like to go with her. She said she would let her know this. On our way back to drop me off at the apartment, Helen mentioned that Amelia had phoned to order me dinner that would be delivered to my room at 5:30. This level of hospitality is rather overwhelming!!

A woman arrived precisely at 5:30, knocked on my door and presented me with a metal, cafeteria style plate with rice/ham, cooked cucumber and egg/bean sprouts. All items I have grown to enjoy while I've been a guest here in China. I flipped on the CCTV 9 all English station and settled into to my second night in Shanghai...the first evening of 2006. Tomorrow at 10:00 Helen and Rebecca will appear at 10:00 to take me to a museum. I am very, very spoiled!!